This section deals with "cosmetic" rust repairs, on panels that do not form part of the vehicles load-bearing structure. Any repairs to chassis, frame or mounting points of any type must be carried out to a professional standard, which is not the intended scope of this section. Rust repairs generally cover two areas; surface rust and rust holes (perforation ) Surface rust can usually be removed and held at bay successfully, perforated metalwork will need much more extensive work to provide a lasting repair.
Where surface rust and pitting is evident, additional stages to the normal sanding/feathering process are required. Use a wire brush attachment or "flap-wheel" type flexible abrasive to completely remove any trace of corrosion from the pitted surface, paying careful attention to seams and out-of-sight folded edges, to prevent rust creeping around door edges, etc. When perfectly clean, treat with a proprietary rust remover surface treatment. Apart from the range available in motor accessory shops, paint suppliers also supply metal conditioning/surface treatment fluids which are usually phosphoric acid based. Whichever type is used, follow the manufacturers' instructions, rinse thoroughly and dry the metal immediately. Follow this with etch primer before any further filling of minor surface defects is attempted. Note: etch primer should not be used as a base for polyester bodyfillers. Use a primer-filler followed by a stopper intended for use on primers.>>>Continued
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treatment. Apart from the range available in motor accessory shops, paint suppliers also supply metal conditioning/surface treatment fluids which are usually phosphoric acid based. Whichever type is used, follow the manufacturers' instructions, rinse thoroughly and dry the metal immediately. Follow this with etch primer before any further filling of minor surface defects is attempted. Note: etch primer should not be used as a base for polyester bodyfillers. Use a primer-filler followed by a stopper intended for use on primers.>>>